To continue my series on the American Milk-fed veal industry, I’m going to write about my experience in the veal processing plants. In this series, I’ve already written an overview of the veal industry and about how the calves are fed and raised.
On our tour, hosted
by the American Veal Association, we
were invited to visit two veal processors in the Philadelphia area. We had
breakfast with Wayne Marcho, who told us the story of Marcho Farms. He expanded his
business from a few veal calves that he had in his boyhood into a company that
employs over 200 people and contracts with veal farms in 5 states. He likes to
say it’s a 4H project that ‘got out of hand.’
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| A photo of Mr. Catelli's father. I love the history in the meat business. |
As a meat scientist, I was excited to get to see a new type
of processing plant, but what I saw didn’t surprise me in the least. Just like
all the meat processing plants I’ve been in, these plants had the highest
standards in animal welfare and were immaculately clean and sanitary. They are
operated under USDA
inspection with their required HACCP plans to ensure that they produce a
safe and wholesome product.
We observed harvest at the Marcho Farms plant, and, as with
most large processing facilities in the US, Dr.
Temple Grandin helped to design and approved the holding pens and live
animal handling equipment. The animals are showered with water when they unload
off the truck and rested in pens. They are calmly moved to harvest only by
employees specially trained in live animal handling. The animals were stunned
to render them unconscious and proceed through the process using humane and
sanitary procedures just as is done in meat processing plants of all species.
I didn’t have any
doubt that the harvest process would be clean and humane because I know the
meat industry, and I know the people in it are committed to doing the right
thing. Now I can say that I’ve seen it with my own eyes.
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| A USDA inspection stamp on a veal carcass at Marcho Farms |
Although we were not
able to see the harvest side of the Catelli Brothers operation, Mr. Catelli
shared that their live animal handling areas are monitored by a third-party animal
welfare auditing company. They use video to view their entire process 100%
of the time they are in operation.
Marcho Farms uses a lactic acid wash on the carcasses at
various stages in the slaughter process to help keep bacteria from attaching to
the meat. USDA inspectors observe the live animals and the whole harvest
process. They will also look over each carcass and their organs for signs of
disease or contamination. The inspector will mark each carcass with an
inspection stamp of edible ink.
The carcasses are
washed with 180°F water and individually bagged in plastic to eliminate cross-contamination.
After chilling 48 hours in a cooler they are graded and cut up.
The calves
weigh about 500 pounds and have carcasses that range from 250 to 300 pounds.
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| You can see the size of the veal carcasses at Marcho Farms. This man is about 6-foot tall |
Veal grading
Just like beef,
veal has USDA
grades assigned to the carcasses by a USDA grader. Veal carcasses may grade
Prime, Choice, Good, Standard, or Utility. Grades are decided based on the
conformation of the carcasses (ratio of muscle to bone and fat) and the color
of the lean. The grader evaluates each
carcass and designates their grade with a stamp of purple, edible ink.
Marcho Farms also
participates in a USDA Process Verified Program called Butcher’s
Block Reserve. It has qualifications for Quality grade in addition to
ribeye size and lean color. The USDA grader evaluates each carcass and
certifies the ones that meet the specifications for the program. It’s kinda
like Certified
Angus Beef for veal.
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| At Marcho Farms, USDA graders stamp veal carcasses with Quality Grade or Butcher Block Reserve stamps based on lean color, ribeye size, and conformation (muscling). |
Fabrication
In the meat business,
we use the term ‘fabrication’ to reference the trimming and cutting up of the
carcasses, so it’s really the opposite of ‘fabrication’. But, that’s the tradition.
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| Employees wear white frock and aprons, disposable sleeves and gloves when handling and cutting the veal. |
Just like in all meat processing facilities, the plant is
washed top to bottom every day, and company employees and USDA check the plant
for cleanliness before they get started. Anyone entering the plant is required
to wear clean frocks, hairnets, and hard hats. We had to wash our hands every
time we entered, even though we weren’t going to touch anything. Employees who
work with the meat wear plastic gloves and sleeves that get changed several
times each day.
All of the cutting
and packaging rooms are kept at refrigerated temperatures. Several times
throughout the process, the veal cuts were sprayed with a blend of lactic and
citric acid to control bacterial growth. The veal cuts move through the plant
on cleaned, sanitized conveyor belts and in containers we call ‘lugs.’ The veal
cuts are packaged ready to set out in the store. Catelli Brothers was the first
company to provide case-ready veal and lamb. Once the cuts are packaged and
labeled, they are boxed and stored in refrigeration until they are shipped out.
Even the shipping dock is temperature controlled and the company places a
temperature recorder inside each truck to ensure the meat stays cold.
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| Case-ready veal cuts at Catelli Brothers |
Mr. Catelli said that most of their veal takes less than 7
days from harvest to retail. That includes the carcasses being imported from
Canada! Freshness is very important in
the veal industry. Both Marcho Farms and Catelli Brothers said that they
are able to trace their veal from farm to fork.
Something I always
enjoy hearing about is the plant employees. These two plants employ over 400
people. It’s not easy work. These folks have to work on their feet in cold
temperatures wearing lots of protective equipment. But, they enjoy their jobs.
Many employees of both of these companies have worked there for many years. Mr.
Catelli introduced us to Phil, who has been cutting meat for 57 years.
As on the harvest side, nothing I saw in fabrication and
packaging surprised me. The process was clean and efficient. I have no doubt
that they are producing a safe and wholesome product. Please let me know if you
have any questions.
I wanted to share a few more pictures from the plant.
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| Some meat loaf blend heading from the grinder to packaging in the Catelli Brothers plant. It contains veal, beef, and pork. |
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| The carcasses at Catelli Brothers are harvested in both the US and Canada. So, the Canadian food safety system inspects the carcasses that are imported. |
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| Carcasses at Catelli Brothers are split into two sides like a beef or pork carcass, whereas those from Marcho Farms are left intact like a lamb carcass. Each company does what works best for them. |
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| When the meat cutter removes all the meat from the ribs like this, we say its ‘Frenched.’ These are Frenched veal racks waiting for the meat cutter to cut them into Frenched veal rib chops. |
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| Veal shanks for Osso Bucco. |
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| Veal cutlets. They have been tenderized. |
